Living
Edward Finney
Oct 23 2008

When most people think of NortheastBrasilthey think of magnificant coconut tree lined beaches, balmysea breezes, and a laid back life of leisure. Not so in the interior only a couple of hours away where life is more one of struggle and survival in a inhospitable semi arid land. Want to see how the other half lives to appreciate what you have? You can do this in comfort, enjoy yourself and meet some fantastic people who despite their harsh life still have a zest for life.

The weather pattern here in Northeastern Brasil is the opposite of that of the west coast of the US. InCalifornia, the humid air crosses thePacific Oceanand comes ashore to thecoastal mountain rangeand rises and drops it´s moisture as rain. It continues across the valleys to the Sierra Nevadas, rises more and drops the rest of it´s moisture as rain and snow. When it finally reaches Nevada, not a drop is left and what you have is desert. Turn this around and have theAtlanticmoisture laden air coming from Africa come ashore in Northeastern Brasil and hit the mountains a few miles inland. If it is the winter season and the wind and moisture is right, the rain is left on the coast and when it arrives into the deep interior it is dry dry dry. The cycle depends onEl Nino, the Pacific ocean current that affects the weather worldwide. It seems to run on an 8 year cycle and when there is absolutely no rain, the interior suffers enormously.

The interior is semi arid and is covered with a native shrub called Cattinga, a thorny semi useless tree used only for firewood.Farmers try to eek out a living growing corn, squash, and beans on a seasonal basis. The planting begins at the beginning of the rainy season which can be wet or dry. . . if there is enough rain and the land retains enough moisture, there is a crop. . . . . .if the rains are little or non-existent, there is wide spread hunger. The dry years are not solitary years but run in cycles of several years. . . . . . . and when they arrive, there is widespread poverty, hunger and misery. During bad years in the past, there would be wide spread migration to the south where the natives would try to find minimal employment. Largely uneducated, the jobs were low paid and the NE natives barely survived but sent what they could to their families back home. When the rains returned, they all rushed home to begin another cycle of plantingfood and minimum survival. . .but at least it was HOME and not a slum inSão Paulo.

Visiting this land called the Sertão in the interior only a few hours from the fine life inJoão Pessoa,Natalor Recife, is a revelation to the pampered ofEuropeand the US. . and should be an obligatory visit to anyone from the first world. One can go there on the very comfortable intercity buses that keeps everyone in touch with the rest of the world. The hotels there are adequate and the food good. No traveler to the interior will suffer. But what one will see can perhaps change them forever.

The cities like Patos, Souza, Pombal and Cajazeiros in our state of Paraiba are pleasant enough. Hot for sure during the summer when the temperture can reach 40 C or more but not objectionable. Stay inside your air conditioned hotel or at pool side and all is well. You will find the dogs sleeping in the shade but after the long noon meal and siesta the farmers will be in their fields doing what they have to do despite the heat because one must survive. It is not the cities that will shock the visitor. . . . .they are interesting, pleasant and the people are very friendly. But the countryside will shock anyone. The houses are very primitive but most now finally have electric and a TV. But most will have a cook stove burning wood and no refridgerator. . .the houses are made of mud bricks, unpainted and have sagging roofs. Water will be scarce and saved from the rain or delivered in Pipa´s (the water truck). If the kids go to school, and many don´t, they walk miles or ride in a truck. Most are needed at home to help with the labor of planting, herding goats and maintaning the crops. There are NO luxuries. No transportation except for the mule and cart. The people accept their life because they know no other. However, with electric arriving and the easy credit, most have a TV and a view of the other life of the rich in São Paulo, Rio, and even the US and Europe. But that is an impossible dream. They continue their struggle and thank God that they are surviving. They are a deeply religous people and the catholic church controls their life.

Worth a visit if for nothing more than to reaffirm that your life, no matter how bad you think it is,is better than in the interior of Brasil. All I can say is pray for rain. . . . . . . it makes their life better. . .and they can eat and be happy. Bet on it.